THE TASTE FOR THE CHEESES OF SPAIN

THE TASTE FOR THE CHEESES OF SPAIN AND THOSE OF PROTECTED DENOMINATION OF ORIGIN

In these moments Spain is provided with a variety of more than 100 catalogued varieties, and with a gastronomic patrimony of cheeses that begins to forge a revolution similar to the one that happened in the wine a few decades ago.

Between other things, the "Author's Cheeses" have popped in strongly Frentre to the French who can sell magnificently his products.

Spain has still to cover a long way. And his cheese universe is not an exception. In this field not only they are not, but nappies would be still in"" with regard to the Gallic neighbors, and other European countries, as it is Holland, Belgium, Switzerland, etc, in that this quoted dairy product has a big leading role.

Perhaps let's must look for the motives a little further, and more exactly during the Middle Age, while in Center Europe there were the monks who took charge in abbeys of the securing of the cheese and the consequent systematization of skills, in Spain his making remained limited to the housekeeping, simply like resource to complete the diet. This situation gave place to a big specialties diversity, but simultaneously to the nonexistence of quality criteria and forms of manufacture.

This uncertainty that also it was affecting to other important food sectors as the oils or the wines, it was little by little, being corrected for, only approximately fifteen years ago, to begin to value his cheeses, his quality, variety, like what was, The most important patrimony gastrónomico.

And this way while it is a fact that in the Alps the best cow cheeses do to themselves - The Spanish Native of La Mancha, almost it equals them, the tops of sheep and goat are in the Mediterranean basin; more specifically, as for goat that possesses the milk of higher quality of Europe. It is so top that the French buy it to prepare cheeses in his country.

Nowadays in Spain hundred of them exist a variety of approximately 150 different cheeses, catalogued, As tells us José Luis Martin, cheese teacher, and one of the big experts in the topic "the this revolution in march, there is an excellent raw material, good grasslands......... but perhaps only methodology is missing"

Since it happened a few years ago in the sector vitivínicola, the Spanish are waking up to their own wealth and avant-garde initiatives begin to be consolidated. He stands out the fact that there should begin to take force the meaning of CHEESES OF AUTHOR obtained by means of a constant pursuit of the product, from the selection of the race, his upbringing, a special making........ everything in order to obtains a few characteristics organolépticas with the non-transferable stamp of every house.

In addition to the craftsmen's proliferation that they spoil carefully the product, some industrial factories begin to extract to the market cheeses of the type "Big Reservation", for which they keep the best milk games and destine it to more select productions.

 Presently basically three types of cheeses exist: FARM, CRAFTSMAN and INDUSTRIALIST That of Farm, is prepared by a producer with cattle and proper facilities.

 The second, Craftsman, is realized by milk of the immediate environment and without any type of artificial additive.

And the Industrialist is the result of big productions. A few years ago, the sanitary norms for the dairies, especially those of familiar type changed greatly as for characteristics of the facilities in order to guarantee an entire hygiene. But according to the expert the same one cannot demand from a craftsman that to a big company, there are many problems, for example, in the makings with milk crudas:conservada any more than 48 hours they diminish or the natural ferments of the milk kill themselves, what it harms to the final score, and it reduces personality.

Also, in case of the raw milk, the interpretation of the Spanish rules is even more strict than that of the European Union. Here it is allowed to use it provided that it fulfills a few health requisites and the cheeses have a minimal maturation of 60 days.

Nevertheless in Europe is not required that the healing period is so long. At present 22 cheeses exist in Spain with origin denomination protégée (DOP) from the cabrales, to the Roncal or the Nankin. If one asks Mr. Martín if the cheeses in Spain are expensive, says that Not, since it is a living element and that it evolves and it is possible to spoil very easily, and he needs many precautions, what he would say, is that in fact it is a Bargain sale.

In Spain there are big orographical varieties and big climatic contrasts what the baby of the cattle propitiates in different microclimates, from the highest mountain to the most shady vales. But there says fundamentally Martin who is very important that Spain begins valuing more what it possesses, what till not long ago had not happened. (

(DOP) Cheese cabrales Comes from Asturia, from the area of the Peaks of Europe, is prepared from raw cow Milk or with something of goat and sheep. The pasta is semisoft, and with seams of blue - greenish color. They mature caves where he inhabits the mold Penicilium (it creates the greenish color and his peculiar smell), with conditions of temperature and ventilation that they it favor. It remains there from 3 until 5 months placed in wooden shelves. Greasy texture, flavor lightly acidic and persistent peak. Experts' election: The best come from the TIELVE, where there are prepared the marks, Cave of the TEYEDU, and Dujes.

(DOP) Cheese PALMERO The goatherds of the Island of Palma have few goats (100 to 120) to those who take care with caress. Prepared with raw milk and rennets of the stomach of the kid, it is smoked and of cylindrical form and with the flat faces. Yellowish color, Maturation in fresh and humid ambiences, trás several days get ready in wooden grills and blacken, using for it rinds of almond or crust of pine. Harmonic smell between goat and smoke. Marked, acidic and sweet flavor simultaneously. Election of the Expert: Of the region of The Plains of Aridane, the best take the legend "Cheese of Herd" (of approximately 8 kilos)

(DOP) Cheese IDIAZÁBAL is prepared in the Basque Country and Navarre, except the municipalities that integrate the Vale of the Roncal. There is prepared by raw milk of indigenous sheep (races lacha and/or carranzana) hard, smooth Crust of yellow color. In case of the smoked ones the color is brown - dark. To the cut, the color goes of the ivory to the yellow - straw one. In case of the smoked ones, the cheeses get ready in grills, and blacken for 24 hours with wood of alder, beech, green hawthorn, etc. marked Flavor, very elegant acidity. Sometimes with light sweetness. Balanced of salt, and with a slightly acidic and piquant retaste simultaneously. Election of the Expert: The guaranteed ones, for the Association Zumitz of Basque shepherds, who only transform their own milk. After a tasting there receive the guarantee Latza-Gazta or black tag those who obtain 95 to 100 points and Zumitz 90, which receive 94 points. Numerous awards

(DOP) Cheese OF LA MANCHA The genuine cheese Of La Mancha is prepared in municipalities of The Spot of the Provinces of Albacete, Ciudad Real Cuenca, and Toledo. Prepared with milk of sheep of race of La Mancha (hangover or pasteurized, the industrialists). His crust is hard, of waxen yellow color when it is cleaned before his sale and dark brown color when his crust is natural and without treatments; of color ivory or straw in the cured ones. Maturation of four months. Developed, slightly acidic and sweet flavor simultaneously in the semicured ones. The cured ones develop a retaste to dry fruits and a light itch. Election of the Expert: The marks Marantona (raw milk) (pasteurized) Montescusa are manufacturers rewarded with limited productions and select herds.

(DOP) CAKE OF MARRYING "defective" Cheese since in his origins it was a question of pieces that they were not hardening well. Prepared with raw milk of sheep and vegetable rennet, ivory is of very soft color pasta, it semiliquidates. It can present cracks or slits due to his delicacy. Maturation of 60 days minimum. Intense smell with animal memories (wool and fat) and a little sour. A perfect combination of animal and vegetable aromas on a bitter fund due to the vegetable rennet. Election of the Expert: The producer Rafael Pajuelo prepares every day the cheese with the milk of his own cattle.

We might say that these are the most well-known, but we must not forget that at present in Spain 22 cheeses exist with Protected Denomination of Origin. (DOP)